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June 2008 Specialty Club
2003 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello fans will certainly recognize the estate Casanova di Neri,
particularly since their 2001 "Tenuta Nuova" Brunello was named wine of the
year in 2006 by the Wine Spectator magazine. Founded in 1971, when Montalcino
was something of a backwater, the rise of this winery in international esteem has paralleled
the phenomenal ascent of Brunello to the highest ranks of the wine world. Neri owns four
of the most esteemed vineyard sites in Montalcino, but they have never exported any wine
to the United States from their oldest and highest-altitude vineyard, Fiesole, planted
originally in 1873. Until now. This wine is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes
from the Fiesole Vineyard, and aged in large French and Slavonian oak casks for 3 years.
Unlike the powerhouse "Tenuta Nuova," this Brunello emphasizes elegance and
finesse, balance and complexity. We agree with the expert consensus that the wine is
drinkable early (say in 2 or 3 years) but will still age beautifully over the next ten
years. It was only $55 (the 2003 Tenuta Nuova is $80!), and we were able to get a few
extra bottles for club members.
2004 Domaine Michel Juillot Mercurey 1er Cru "Clos
des Barraults"
Just the other day, Bear was commenting on how beautifully the
2004 white Burgundies are showing these days. This wine is a stellar example, a premier
cru Chardonnay from the much overlooked Côte Chalonnais region, just to the south
of the famous Côte d'Or and north of the better known Maconnais. Laurent Juillot
is the current winemaker for the oldest estate in Mercurey, founded in 1404. Mercurey
whites are known to be quite robust and full-bodied, and this one is no exception. The
floral nose complements the ripe pear and peach flavors, and a touch of vanilla and a
hint of hazelnut from the oak gives the wine a nice round mouth feel. As for food pairing
suggestions, the Juillot family recently served it with a nice plate of sausage and
pâté for a visiting American wine critic. It could also match very well
with shellfish, white meats, and dry cheeses. There's a bit more available at $45.
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